The first beauty product that launched Coco Chanel’s expansion into the cosmetic industry was a red lipstick encased in ivory, in 1924. At that time, a copper mechanism called ‘à glissette’ allowed for the lipstick to slide out from its round case, enabling women to apply touch-ups quickly and in style. The product was manufactured in three shades of red to satisfy women of the 1920s: Fair, Medium, and Dark. Mademoiselle, who was well known for wearing red lipstick and continues to influence how we manipulate it today, developed CHANEL cosmetics with a fierce dedication to delivering state-of-the-art product design and makeup of the highest quality.
Following her early use of ivory, in 1929, Chanel labeled her lipstick ‘un crayon’ and rewrapped it in a sliding, rounded black enamel casing. Shortly thereafter, she repackaged the product again—this time using glass—and CHANEL lipstick adopted the transparent container for several years. In 1932, timed with the budding success of her legendary fragrance, ‘Chanel No5’, Coco produced a line of lipsticks that were advertised to perfectly complement her perfume. By 1935, the traditional sliding case was replaced with an improved twist-up case, and Mademoiselle called her new collection, ‘Rouge à Lèvres’. Finally, in 1948, a distinctive square-shaped case replaced the original round one, and Coco’s ‘Les Rouges de Chanel’ collection was introduced.
The ‘Rouges de Chanel’ line initiated Coco’s avid search for the optimal product aesthetic, which resulted in the creation of CHANEL Beauté’s signature packaging. CHANEL’s iconic black and gold composition first appeared in 1954 and yet it thrives today as the design standard for CHANEL lipstick. Daring, provocative, and quintessentially feminine, red lipstick—and the evolution of its framework—exemplifies Chanel’s radical dedication to achieving perfection.
“If you feel sad, if you are broken-hearted, put on some makeup, pamper yourself, add a little lipstick, and go for it.” – Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel
As Creative Director of CHANEL Makeup, Peter Philips is the man behind the reinvention of contemporary CHANEL lipstick. His latest incarnation is La Fascinate from the Rouge Allure Velvet collection, a lipstick that was introduced last month in eight sophisticated shades. Offering an alternative to shine, Rouge Allure Velvet’s matte finish lifts lipstick luxury to a higher level. Enriched with ultra fine mother of pearl pigments, its color application is deep while still feeling soft and smooth on the lips. The collection’s newly released shade of red, La Fascinate, is intensely seductive with a moisturizing and radiant finish.
CHANEL Makeup Artists
Established by CHANEL in 2006, the CHANEL Makeup Artist Program consists of five exceptionally talented makeup artists: Kara Yoshimoto Bua, Rachel Goodwin, Kate Lee, Angela Levin, and Fulvia Farolfi. The classic, but modern beauty that is representative of the House of Chanel is demonstrated by the distinct artistry of each of these five women. As partners of CHANEL, they are given free reign to experiment with CHANEL products for their world-class editorial looks and in working with their celebrity clientele.
Lilogi is pleased to introduce Fulvia Farolfi, one of five members of CHANEL’s acclaimed beauty syndicate. Fulvia is a versatile makeup artist who always operates several steps ahead of her peers and is widely respected for her crafted flawlessness. Known for her ingenious use of color, her appreciation for natural beauty, and her ability to create varied masterpieces both editorially and for the red carpet, she is an influential force in the beauty world.
A favorite among fashion photographers Raymond Meir, Irving Penn, Bruce Weber, Helmut Newton, Peter Lindbergh, and Steven Klein, and with an adoring celebrity clientele that includes Naomi Watts, Julia Roberts, Diane Kruger, Annette Benning, Salma Hayek, Sarah Jessica Parker, Diane Lane, and Ashley Judd, we are proud to credit Fulvia as Lilogi’s CHANEL makeup authority.
Here, Fulvia shares her invaluable insight on the subject of CHANEL’s definitive red lipstick with Lilogi.
What do you love most about CHANEL’s Rouge Allure Velvet collection and the newest color, La Fascinate?
Fulvia: Definitely the lipstick’s texture—it’s amazing. It’s matte, but still moist. A perfectly wearable lipstick and long lasting. I love the fact that you can wear it sheer or full-on, and La Fascinate is a great shade—very beautiful, ruby red, and very chic.
How do you think red lipstick should be worn?
Fulvia: I love it with a soft eye. For example, on Naomi Watts, I do very soft smokey brown eyes, mascara, and a touch of blush with a strong lip. On other women, I do it with a stronger eye, then I apply the lipstick, and then, with a Kleenex, I soften it. You still have a beautiful shade so it looks like a tinted lip, but it’s not creamy, and it doesn’t go on the line because of the matte texture. That’s the alternative.
How should a woman choose the right red for her? Is there a way for women to determine which shades work best for their coloring and skin tone?
Fulvia: I definitely believe that certain colors are universal, like La Fascinate. Other colors, for example, orangey-red, I like better on blondes or on colored skin it’s beautiful, too. If you have a yellowish, Mediterranean tone, then I would stay away from the orangey-red and go with more of a blue-red. I would do a darker red for someone younger.
What tips can you offer for lipstick application?
Fulvia: To start, make sure that the lips are not cracked and that they are moist, but not greasy. Line-up, first with the liner without pushing too harshly so it’s not like painted-on perfect lips. Then, I usually use a brush to blend the pencil so that you don’t see it underneath the lipstick. I apply the lipstick with the brush as well for the most perfect application. And if you want to make it last longer, you pat [the lips with] Kleenex and then apply a second coat.
What would you say is the best complement to a red lip?
Fulvia: Definitely a soft eye and a rosy cheek.
How do you keep a red lip looking modern?
Fulvia: There are subtle variations in colors. In the Rouge Velvet [collection], there are beautiful ones. I also love Rouge Coco, Cambon. The lipsticks have a hint of pink so they are unlike the typical red. I love that CHANEL lipstick is kind of subtle, but with all the beautiful variations of red. They are always surprising. I always look out for something that is not totally obvious.
What are some common mistakes that women make while applying a red lip?
Fulvia: Making the line too sharp, especially if you are over thirty-five. Also, using a lipstick that is too creamy. And putting a gloss on top. These are three things not to do!
What has been your most memorable ‘red carpet moment’ so far?
Fulvia: On the topic of red lips, probably Naomi Watts’. She wears red lips beautifully.
How do red lips make you feel?
Fulvia: Like wearing high heels!
The Rouge Allure Velvet collection is available at department and specialty stores. Please visit chanel.com for more information.
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