SECRETS D'ORIENTS
Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel was a woman of absolute conviction. She spoke her mind and never hesitated to initiate change because she aimed to live a big life built of her own accord. Chanel not only opposed the established social conventions that surrounded her in France, she also challenged her own beliefs through perpetual self-reinvention.
Coco Chanel was fixated on ‘today', understanding that her circumstances were ever-changing and that even her creative ideas were in flux. Determined to live in the present, she often deliberately shifted her design focus, which demonstrated her tendency to contradict orthodoxy that she herself had initiated. Throughout every modification, however, what remained constant was Chanel's self-assurance. In November of 1932, she issued an invitation to a diamond jewelry exhibit featuring a collection that she had designed and titled, 'Bijoux de Diamants’. It was an ambitious event that marked the House of Chanel's brilliant foray into fine jewelry.
After Coco achieved great notoriety promoting costume jewelry based on her original theory that wearing ‘fake’ jewels was just as luxurious as wearing real gems, her 'Bijoux de Diamants' collection sparked confusion. As the Parisian economy crashed, the struggling Union of Diamond Merchants had turned to Chanel for support. The union's plea and the clear-cut authenticity of the diamonds appealed to Chanel at a time when her society sought sincerity. She agreed to work with the union and through 'Bijoux de Diamants', Coco exposed the interdependence of many professions within the fashion industry including the diamond merchants, artisans, manufacturers, and transportation workers. She thereby connected people across the world as contributors to the grand success of a CHANEL collection.
Although it countered her previous arguments against precious stones, Chanel's decision to side with the diamond merchants was not a sign of incertitude. On the contrary, it indicated her flexible perspective and her eagerness to prompt change, both of which were attributes that made Coco, CHANEL. Today, CHANEL Joaillerie remains committed to excellence as it strives for perfection while releasing collections with the same confidence that Mademoiselle exuded in 1932. The House’s opulent creativity puts CHANEL Joaillerie at the forefront of Fine Jewelry.
Most recently, CHANEL released the ‘Secrets d’Orients’ collection. Inspired by Mademoiselle’s exploration of Venice in the summer of 1920, the seven varied sub-collections of ‘Secrets d’Orients’ demonstrate unconventional, but complementary combinations of images that represent the East merging with the West.
Mademoiselle would often ask herself, “Why does all I do become Byzantine?” With that thought in mind, CHANEL Joaillerie put forth 'Secrets d'Orients' as an imaginary projection of the Oriental references that Mademoiselle may have fantasized about while in Venice. Her fondness for Byzantium is crystallized in symbols that recall Saint Mark’s basilica and the Ducal Palaces. Within the collection, an unusual combination of international influences is realized through an exotic medley of multicolored gemstones. The collection features sapphires, pink tourmaline, garnets, emeralds, and rubies, which are softened by diamonds and pearls. Striking, but still delicate, ‘Secrets d’Orients’ exemplifies the subtle juxtaposition of contrasting elements that Mademoiselle was always so enthralled by.
‘Secrets d’Orients’ is currently available at CHANEL Joaillerie, Los Angeles. Please visit chanel.com for more information.
Illustrations by Isabelle Choi.
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